I Randolph S. Shiner
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From: "B Taverna" <bltaverna@yahoo.com>
To: "* EEJH" <eejh@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: 3/25/06 5:40
Subject: [Food] 10 great places to nosh on authentic Jewish deli food
March 24, 2006
10 great places to nosh on authentic Jewish deli food
The classic Jewish deli was born of homesickness. The
wave of Eastern European immigrants that flooded into
New York from 1881 to 1924 brought with them a
yearning for the Old Country. And they found it by
sharing food and conversation in neighborhood
eateries. Even today, writes Sheryll Bellman in her
new book, America's Great Delis: Recipes and
Traditions from Coast to Coast (Collectors Press,
$35), delicatessens are about more than matzo ball
soup and brisket. “(It) is comfort, it is memories, it
is nostalgia.” Sadly, many of the time-honored Jewish
delis are gone. How to identify the real deal? “The
ambience isn't fancy. The menus always stay the same,”
Bellman says. She steers USA TODAY's Jayne Clark to
some classic Jewish delis.
Canter's Deli
Los Angeles
This old-fashioned deli in the heart of Los Angeles
looks much as it did when it opened at its Fairfax
Avenue location in 1953 (though it's been in business
since 1931). “The booths are the same. Even the
waitresses seem pretty much the same. And they have
the best bakery in the city: babka, rugelach, cheese
Danish, cheese blintzes. The best,” Bellman says. The
475-seat restaurant is open 24 hours a day.
323-651-2030; cantersdeli.com .
Stage Deli
New York
Established in the heart of the theater district in
1937, the restaurant drew actors and theatergoers and
continued to attract those loyal customers after it
moved in 1943 to Seventh Avenue and 54th Street,
Bellman says. The original owner, Russian immigrant
Max Asnas, was the first to put a celebrity sandwich
on the menu, a tradition that continues today, with
creations such as the Dolly Parton (pastrami and
corned beef on twin rolls). 800-782-4369;
stagedeli.com.
Shapiro's Delicatessen
Indianapolis
This city isn't exactly where you'd expect to run
across a classic deli, Bellman acknowledges, but this
one has been in the Shapiro family for four
generations. The cafeteria-style restaurant seats 250,
who flock to dine on traditional fare such as sour
cream egg noodles and potato pancakes. 317-631-4041;
shapiros.com.
Zingerman's Delicatessen
Ann Arbor, Mich.
Owners Ari Weinzweig and Paul Saginaw couldn't find
decent deli food in this Midwest college town, so they
solved the problem by opening their own place. “It's
not that old — they opened in the '80s, but they've
developed into a famous place where people go for the
reason people go to delis — good, plentiful food,”
Bellman says. 734-663-3354; zingermans.com.
Attman's Delicatessen
Baltimore
Rose's Deli & Bakery
Portland, Ore.
Portland isn't exactly a hotbed of Jewish cooking, but
Rose's has been an off-and-on fixture since 1956, when
Rose Naftalin opened her place on NW 23rd Avenue. She
retired in 1967. The restaurant closed in 1980 but
reopened with new owners 14 years ago. It has changed
and expanded — there are four Rose's Delis in the area
now — and all rely on Naftalin's original recipes.
People come from all over for the cinnamon rolls.
503-222-5292; rosesrestaurant.net.
Nate ‘n Al Delicatessen Restaurant
Beverly Hills, Calif.
The whitefish is delicious; the lox, divine. And the
celebrity spotting at this vintage deli isn't half
bad, either. Regulars include Larry King, Suzanne
Pleshette, Robert Wagner and Neil Diamond. Even so,
“it's not as touristy as some New York delis. It's
more of a locals' place,” Bellman says. Little has
changed since opening day in 1945. “The waitresses
have been there forever. The menu hasn't changed.” And
even in weight-conscious Beverly Hills, “on Sundays
there's a line out the door.” 310-274-0101;
natenal.com.
Corky & Lenny's
Woodmere Village, Ohio
This suburban Cleveland restaurant remains “the Jewish
deli in the area” 50 years after Corky Kurland and
Lenny Kaden opened it, Bellman says. It's still
family-run and still known for its chocolate
phosphates — “what we in New York call an egg cream.
There are no eggs and no cream. It's milk and
chocolate syrup and seltzer.” 216-464-3838
corkyandlennys.com.
Carnegie Delicatessen
New York
The sandwiches are huge. The wait staff is surly. The
tour buses line up outside. “It's the quintessential
New York deli. You eat at these long tables and
everything's delicious,” Bellman says. “It's a huge
tourist place, but (diners) get their money's worth.”
800-334-5606; carnegiedeli.com.
Langer's Deli
Los Angeles
Patrons rhapsodize about the pastrami sandwiches, on
the menu since 1947 at this downtown Los Angeles
restaurant. Office workers routinely climb on the
city's abbreviated subway system and take the
“pastrami express” — the red line train to the
Westlake/MacArthur Park stop — for one of these tender
creations. Bellman persuaded co-owner Norm Langer to
reveal his pastrami recipe, and she includes it in her
book, “though no one is going to make it.” (It
requires three hours of cooking in a custom-made
steamer.) “But it's nice that he shared it with me,”
she says. 213-483-8050langersdeli.com.
http://www.usatoday.com/printedition/life/20060324/dd_great24.art.htm
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